Mystical Elephant Encounters

Travel Story by Sharon Spence Lieb

Chiang Mai, Thailand

In my fantasy, I am Keeper of the Royal Elephants for his Majesty, The King of Thailand.

"Bring me a female White Elephant," my King commands. "Sacred and rare, they're not easily found. I hear they are charmed by purple orchids."

"Your Majesty," I stammer, "In all my years as your Royal Elephant Keeper, I have never captured a White Elephant. Wherever shall I look?"

"The Mae Sa Valley," he smiles. "She will be bathing in a shady river. Delight her with purple orchids, then deliver her to me in secret. A most special surprise for the Queen's birthday!"

My elephant, Noy Nang, and I search tangled forests of teak trees and fragrant wild ginger. We ride along terraced mountain slopes, under sparkling waterfalls, wading across every river. Not a white elephant in sight. One afternoon, a kaleidoscope of butterflies leads us to a clouded leopard, reclining high in a canopy.

"We're searching for a female White Elephant," I say. "A gift for the Queen's birthday." His golden eyes sparkle in the sun. "A beautiful White Elephant lives near the Ping River," he says, leaping onto the dappled forest floor. We follow.

"There," he whispers.

"Many thanks," I murmur. "She's magnificent."

Breaking off a branch of purple orchids, I quietly slide down Noy Nang's trunk. Splashing in the river, a captivating young elephant sprays muddy water over her ivory body. Enchanting. Regal. How can I entice her?

"You, most extraordinary creature, are invited to live at the Royal Palace, with the King and Queen," I offer, extending the iridescent lavender orchids.

The White Elephant unfurls her trunk towards me. She gazes at me warily.

"You will be well loved, I promise...."

Suddenly my elephant fantasy is interrupted.

"I promised you an elephant performance today Sharon," says Mr. Chai, my Chiang Mai guide. "Come along now, the show is starting. The elephants not only play soccer, they create fine art. Amazing!"

Finding myself in 2006, I reluctantly leave the rare White Elephant at the Ping River.

Hundreds of enthusiastic tourists sit in a small covered stadium. Like Miss America contestants, sixteen Asian elephants lumber into the ring, carrying a banner that reads "Welcome to Maesa Elephant Camp!" Mahouts in red-striped shirts and blue flip flops slide gracefully down their elephant's trunks, then scramble deftly up their giant back legs. Elephants and mahouts exuberantly bow to our delighted applause.

Soccer time. One elephant picks up a ball with his trunk, then kicks it toward the net–

The goal is blocked by a savvy elephant goalie. After half a dozen more blocks, the ball finally veers past the keeper – it's a goal! Elephant Team A trumpets loudly and the audience cheers.

Next is the fine art class. Mahouts set out white canvases on wooden easels. Holding a paintbrush in their trunk, each elephant delicately dips into small pots of paint. One embraces the spirit of Monet, creating an impressionistic cluster of pink and purple water lilies. Another mimics Jackson Pollack, with a modernistic splash of colorful graphic lines. Yet a third reincarnates O'Keeffe, fashioning stunning flower close-ups. The paintings are sent to the souvenir shop, where most of them are bought as unique gifts.

"According to an Indian folk tale, elephants once had wings," Mr. Chai tells me. "An aged hermit meditating under a banyan tree was disturbed when a flock of flying elephants crashed into the branches. One branch broke and fell on him. Outraged, he used his magic powers to remove all the elephants' wings. So from that time on, no elephants have wings and they must walk instead of fly."

I wondered, did White Elephants have wings as well?

After our Maesa Elephant Camp show, Mr. Chai takes us to Wat Phrathat, one of Thailand's most sacred and beautiful temples.

"Elephants are an important part of the story of Wat Phrathat," Mr. Chai says, as we drive over the undulating road up to Doi Suthep mountain outside of Chiang Mai. "A holy relic from Buddha was given to King Kuena during his reign in the 1300's. The King placed the relic in a howdah strapped to an elephant's back. The elephant trudged many difficult miles up the mountain, finally arriving exhausted at the top of Doi Suthep. She placed the relic on the mountain top. Her task completed, she died. She was a sacred White Elephant. They were revered," Mr. Chai continues. "Lucky elephants lived happily at the Royal Residence with the King and Queen. Servants brought them special food on silver trays. On festival days, they were adorned with silk and painted with bright colors. No one ever rode a White Elephant, not even the King."

We arrive at Wat Phrathat. Veering upward between two undulating dragons are three hundred and six narrow steps. I begin my journey.

On step two hundred and six, a group of orange robed monks greet me. They nod encouragement, as if to say, "Just one hundred more steps. Someone important waits for you."

At the top, a golden Chedi containing a Buddha relic vaults dramatically into a cobalt sky. Around the Chedi are four ornamental umbrellas, gilded with beautiful filegree decorations. Surrounding the cloister are murals illustrating the Buddha's life.

Inside a cool alcove, a monk speaking Sanskrit offers blessings to worshippers. Slipping off my shoes, I tiptoe to sit among them. His kindness fills the room, captivating all of us who have come so far, so high. The monk looks curiously at me.

"Where from?" he asks.

"Charleston. South Carolina. America." I quietly reply.

"So far away! Welcome! Special blessings for you. Much good luck for all your country," he says, raining me with holy water.

In the serene courtyard, children ring ancient bells. A rare White Elephant waits for me in a garden of purple orchids. I will take her to live at the Palace with my King and Queen. She will be well loved.

Illustration by Bob Veon
(Bob Veon's Website)

Read more about the author of this story:
Sharon Spence Lieb